A collection of my favorite things to eat, see and do in Rome

  • My friends have a b&b in Monti (where we live and our favorite neighborhood!)
  • The Beehive – we’ve met the owners of this luxury hostel and they’re awesome! There’s also a vegetarian cafe and a garden there.

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  • TRIESTE — In Monti on Via Urbana; my favorite pizza probably on the planet. Choose one from the menu and get it made fresh–it’s the absolute best way to experience it. The ones already made in the case are good, too, but fresh out of the oven is insane.
  • The new food hall/market in Termini train station. Super cool, loads of delicious (Italian) food options from the best food producers in Rome
  • Trattoria dal Cavalier Gino — near Trevi Fountain; great service, very good traditional roman food
  • Pierluigi — Not far from Campo de’ Fiori; expensive but so very good. Great for a special night out.
  • Broccoletti — Monti; we go here at least once a week. It’s one of our top favorites!
  • Trattoria Morgana — Esquilino; delicious, down home cooking, never disappoints! My favorite carbonara in Rome!
  • Aromaticus — Monti; fresh, healthy, light; delicious vegetarian and vegan options, fresh juices
  • Casa Coppelle — near Pantheon; beautiful decor, great drinks, super romantic, delicious food
  • Enoteca Spiriti — near Pantheon, two locations; modern food and atmosphere, delicious!
  • La.Vi — near Via Del Corso; awesome lunch buffet, great value, roof garden!
  • Coso
  • Dillà — near Spanish Steps
  • Di Quà — near Spanish Steps
  • Mordi e Vai — box 15 at the Testaccio Market; delicious sandwiches. Lots of other good stands at the market, too.
  • Recafé – good pizza not far from Spanish steps, right off one of the main shopping streets, Via del Corso
  • Ginger — near Spanish Steps; fresh food, juices and smoothies in case you need something lighter than pasta and pizza!
  • DOT — Trastevere
  • Ai Tre Scalini — Monti
  • Barzilai –Monti
  • Ristorante Alla rampa — near Spanish steps; I love the risotto with seafood and the calamari here! Yum.
  • Armando al pantheon — near pantheon; consistently great food
  • Obicà — the Parlamento location; mozzarella bar, good Italian brunch
  • Roscioli — near Campo de’ Fiori
  • Il Sorpasso — in Prati, near Vatican
  • Zanzara — in Prati, near Vatican
  • Ted’s — in Prati, near Vatican (burgers and lobster rolls if you’re craving something different!)

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  • La Bottega del Cioccolato — Monti; delicious artisan chocolate shop. My favorite is the amaretto fondente (fondente is dark chocolate)
  • SAID Vintage Chocolate Factory

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A word on gelato: ALL GELATO IS NOT  CREATED EQUALLY. Do not go to gelaterias where the gelato is piled high and looks fluffy with bright colors: this is mass produced industrial crap that probably came out of a bag. Gelato should look like the color it would be in nature and should be flat and not that exciting looking. Go only to “artigianale” (artisanal) gelaterias! Stick to the ones I mention and you’ll be golden:

  • Fatamorgana gelato — locations in Monti, near Spanish Steps, Trastevere; one of the best gelaterias with delicious, fresh, true and very inventive flavors and combinations
  • Gelateria la Romana — locations in Prati (near Vatican), Ostiense and others; OMG amazing and creamy gelato.
  • Gelateria dei Gracchi — in Prati, not far from Vatican.
  • Frigidarium — near Campo de Fiori

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N O N – I T A L I A N  F O O D
Agaveria la Punta — Trastevere; new, cool and modern Mexican place with great cocktails, downstairs mezcal bar
Riso — Testaccio; Chinese/Japanese
Temakinho — Monti and maybe a couple other locations; Brazilian Japanese fusion, great drinks
Samba Maki — A couple locations; Brazilian Japanese fusion, great drinks
Indian Affairs or Krishna 13 — Monti and Esquilino; Indian (same owner)

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B A R S  +  C L U B S
  • Lian Club — awesome, boat bar on the water, often has live music
  • Shari Vari (club)
  • Salotto 42
  • Chiavarra
  • Rasputin
  • Gilda
  • Hi-Res at the Valadier Hotel (views)
  • Zuma (rooftop views; dress code)
  • Hotel Eitch Borromini (amazing views)
  • Rooftop bar at the Forum Hotel (just for a quick
  • Bukowski’s Bar
  • Black Market Hall
  • Black Market
  • Libro di Vino
  • Bar Del Fico
  • Etabli
  • Goa bar
  • OS Club
  • Analemma
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  • All the streets off Piazza di Spagna (Via Frattina, Via del Gambero, Via del Babuino, Via Margutta, Via Frattina, Via dei Condotti, Via Vittoria, Via Bourgognone, Via Bocca di Leone, etc)
  • Small boutiques in Monti neighborhood and Mercato Monti on some Saturdays and Sundays for handmade artisanal stuff
  • Via del Corso
  • Via Nazionale
  • Via del Tritone
    via cola di Rienzo,
  • Via Pellegrino
  • Via del Governo Vecchio
  • Via della Stelleta
  • Via Della Scrofa
  • Via dei Coronari
  • Via di Monserrato
  • Via dei Giubbonari

…For Souvenirs

  • Il Marmoraro — Via Margutta 53; Engraved marble tiles that look like the Roman street signs (15 € for a small tile)
  • Campo de’ Fiori for all kinds of interesting things
…For Kids
  • L’Armadio di Oliver + The Milk Bar — Monti; My friends’ second hand kids clothing shop (only stylish and high-quality pieces here!) / shop for pregnancy/nursing/baby gear
  • Neck & Neck — near Spagna
  • Yanni

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S E E  +  D O
  • Villa Aldobrandini — Monti on Via Mazzarino; little known and tucked away park
  • Montemartini museum — Via Ostiense
  • Villa Borghese and Borghese Gallery (pre-book tickets)
  • Chiostro del Bramante — nice stop for a tea or coffee or glass of wine in the afternoon; often has art exhibits on; currently Basquiat
  • Baths of Caracalla (opera, ballet and other performances are on here in the summer! It’s an INCREDIBLE place to take in a show. Try to go!)
  • Forum and Palatine Hill are breathtaking! Do Palatine Hill first; go to the observation area the looks down over the Forum–I was in AWE. I certainly recommend seeing the Forum from above first before walking through it.
  • Villa Celimontana
  • Aventine Hill and Aventine Keyhole + the orange and rose gardens on the way up the hill. Tuck into the Orangerie on the right, walk to/ the end and see magnificent view of Rome.
  • Other magnificent views over Rome can be seen from the Gianicolo and from the terrace of the Risorgimento museum (the museum itself is quite dull, though)
  • Julius Caesar and Augustus’ forums by night. You can walk through Caesar’s forum and you sit in bleachers for Augustus’. With both, you watch/listen to a projection show that recreates what the forums looked like back in the day. This is only in certain months once the weather gets warmer. (
  • Acqua Madre hammam and spa for a nice and relaxing treat.

…With Kids

  • Explora Museum
  • Technotown
  • Ludoteca Amelie
  • Gymboree
  • Playgrounds: behind Castel Sant’Angelo, in Villa Borghese, in Villa Celimontana, in Colle Oppio
  • Gladiator School – here
  • I Burattini del Gianicolo puppet theater